2008: FIRST LOOK Agoura Hills CA

Links, the sea, and country club classics combine in resort

The message for the year ahead: accessorize. To forecast the important directions for 2008, trend-spotters look both at resort shows and at street style in destinations like St. Tropez, mecca for resort trends and fashion forecasters.

Based upon what he saw, Chris Gilbert of Doneger Creative Services says two strong messages come through for 2008. "First is the importance of dresses. Women looked softer, more tailored, and more dressed up even though you are basically at a beach town. Emphasis was on the top of the dress, often with volume, all lengths from short tunic styles to ankle lengths."

The little white dress is now as important for warmer wear as the little black dress is a city staple. In the last year, the dress business has had a major rebound, and predictions are that it could continue to grow at double digit rates in 2008. That's good news for jewelers, since one of the strongest means of updating and changing dress styles is jewelry. The other strong direction for resort is prints, Gilbert says, noting retro-inspired florals still will be important as will more graphic and abstract prints.

What's more, the trend toward more cleaned up, tailored, and even minimalist looks that are translating into resort and early spring looks, actually may benefit jewelry too. Ellen Campuzano of the New York-based Fashion Facts Folio, which tracks jewelry and accessories trends, says, "The new looks are more cleaned up but the silhouettes are feminine and fluid. They beg for accessories. Most important are sunglasses, high heel shoes, and necklaces."

FROM SEA TO SHINING SEA

Despite the abundance of resort-ready styles in ready-to-wear, there are still some directions that coincide with traditional resort themes. One such trend is an extension of many critters and natural motifs that emerged this year—in this case, sea life. Some sharp eyed retailers may have noticed this trend first in Basel, providing a nice lead time for getting the looks into stores by October.

Shells and starfish are the omnipresent motifs when sea life springs up. But this time around more unusual sea critters abound from seahorses, dolphins, octopi, jellyfish, stingrays, and other sea life that previous has been mostly seen on the Discovery channel. Sea life themes are perennial favorites with charms but this time, sea creatures are appearing in high-end and directional lines such as Sevan, one-of-a-kind brooches with rare pearls from Autore, and even a fancy diamond octopus ring from Christian Tse. Look for sea life shapes, such as seahorse, shells, and dolphin shapes to be incorporated into links and chains, which is popular with many Italian lines. The style is whimsical but not corny.

The nautical theme is another perennial favorite, in particular mariner style links and twisted anchor rope looks. Although high polished versions are traditional, the latest links are more likely to be textured, even oxidized, in keeping with the current trend toward more burnished, antiqued precious metals. Exaggerated and larger size mariner links also are appearing, sometimes even made from other materials or gemstones which are then incorporated into the links.

Much like what happens in ready-to-wear, the links and chains that appear strong for resort will continue through spring and summer selling. This is part of a bold gold look, reminiscent of such statements popular in the 1970s, but more likely similar to the tailored precious metal looks of the late 1950s into the 1960s. It's all part of a status signature look, one that has been defined over the years by brands such as Hermes and Gucci. Versions of those links are returning in mixed metals and textures.

What usually follows the nautical chain look is a more terrestrial feeling. Indeed, equestrian looks, resembling bridles and bits, are a strong best for return as well. Riding up alongside the equestrian looks are other design motifs pulled from hunting and other outdoor sports. Horses, hunting, sporting dogs, and all the accoutrements of these leisured sports make ideal sources for these chains. If this country club and hunt lodge concept sounds to you like something right out of a Ralph Lauren store, you're right on target.

GARDEN PARTY

Although Ralph Lauren is celebrating the 40th anniversary of his multi-billion business built upon interpreting the lifestyles of the country club and leisure set, it is the real old money style that is inspiration for a resort trend that will be one of the mainstays of 2008 fashions. The last time the "preppie look" was big in fashion was in the 1980s when it lingered around for several years. For fall, the return to WASPdom was evident in the more tailored, dressed up looks. Those continue, but are now doused with a preppy color palette and fun, frolicsome prints. Think Lilly Pulitzer (or even today's socialite turned designer, Tory Burch). Garden, tea and pool party looks gleaned from such WASP hangouts such as the Hamptons, Palm Beach, Newport, Nantucket, and Saratoga will be flowing into stores. Such garden party looks were prevalent on the spring runways in New York City.

Just how this WASP revisited look translates into fine jewelry sales is sometimes a tricky proposition. The strength is in classic, traditional styles which can seem a bit stodgy to some. But in the heyday of the look, when style icons such as Babe Paley, Gloria Guinness, Slim Keith, or CZ Guest personified the look of quiet elegance, it also was the heyday of master jewelers who pushed the envelope, often combining precious and non-precious materials, adding fun, color, and scale to otherwise commonplace pieces. Among the chief arbiters of this look were Verdura, Seaman Schepps, Jean Schlumberger, David Webb, and Raymond Yard. And their jewelry idioms are relevant today.

Whether they are Jackie Kennedy style strands or Babe Paley's baroque South Sea pearl brooches, pearls are the very personification of the WASP style. That's good news especially given the strength of colored pearls—from grays to browns to goldens—that are already popular with consumers and which add a new twist to classic styles. There's likely to be further change in jewelry classifications, too. The hoop is alive and well but in new metals (rose gold and blackened styles) and the button earring is ripe for a return thanks to lady-like looks.

While there's plenty of time to plan what's coming up for 2008, there's no time to wait to start selling resort and pre-spring looks, even amid heavy duty holiday selling when diamond jewelry is key.