CLASSICAL IN CONTRAST Beaver Dam WI

DEFINING DETAILS

It is this renewed emphasis on occasion dressing that perhaps could have the most influential effect on clothing, accessories, and fine jewelry. The affluent consumer is embracing this idea as a way to differentiate. While dresses may never fully gain the stature they had 50 years ago, there was such a wide range in every collection that no consumer seemed left out. Even among the kookiest of runway antics, there are handbags, shoes, belts, and jewelry on mannequins. The message is clear: Whatever the look or lifestyle, the defining details are integral to the wardrobe.

ELEMENTS OF THE STYLE

• Volume continues to add drama to silhouettes, but unlike fall, where structure was so important, for spring, it's softer and more slouchy.
• Classics like plaid, stripes, and chintz florals are used in more casual and comfortable fabrics and silhouettes.
• Shirt dresses, the classic figure-flattering silhouette, refitted in short to long.
• Return of the hostess look: fun, flowery casual wear that is dressed up a bit "for when company comes over." The look returns for tea parties, garden parties, weddings, and other daytime occasions where traditional formalwear is too much.
• The success of the dress has also reinvigorated the shirt and blouse business, creating opportunities to coordinate separates and a greater need for jewelry and accessories.
• Continued importance of accessories, especially the handbag from large bags to clutches. Emphasis is on the details especially hardware, leather texture, and color.
• Shine and sheen continue, with silvery, pewter, and metallic grays being most important. Ellen Campuzano of Fashion Facts Folio notes that as fall 2008 approaches more burnished looks, especially in yellow gold, bronze, and rose gold, will emerge in apparel and accessories.
• Footwear: Classic Chanel-inspired looks with oversized gold chain details on shoes and handbags.

A TEA PARTY INVITATION

Whether it's hip hop stars such as OutKast rapping about tea party chic, or the return of afternoon high tea on the high society circuit, the lifestyle associated with the patience and tradition of a tea service is back in vogue. Ralph Lauren championed the look on his spring runway as well as at his company's 40th anniversary bash.

ELEMENTS OF THE STYLE

• Tea and garden party florals were one of the few places where bright colors of all hues were combined in single outfits.
• Ruffles at hemlines, necklines, and sleeves. Short skirts, tunics, and sundresses.
• Does anyone still wear a hat? Yes, lots of wide brimmed, floppy, and droopy sun hats in straw or fabric. Hats were de rigueur in San Tropez last summer and hats made frequent appearances on runways.
• Even footwear takes a garden party direction with the return of the espadrille, even Bass Weejuns. Patent leather returns only in an array of colors. Heels range from skinny to chunky with platforms, wedges, and ballerina interest.
• Modern treatments with large-scale florals strategically placed on garments rather than all over.
• Ombred color effects that are so strong in color and boldness they resemble abstract florals. Examples: gowns at Zac Posen and Christian Lacroix.
• Using floral looks to soften minimalism's structure or volume, such as Balenciaga and Dries Van Noten.
• Merging with previous season's medieval influence, the garden inspired looks take on an enchanted forest feeling—complete with fairies and other whimsical beasts.

Seen on the runways: Ralph Lauren, Diane Von Furstenberg, Dolce & Gabbana's impressionistic florals, Roberto Cavalli's oversized flowered gowns, Junya Watanabe, Miuccia Prada's fairy queen inspired prints.

GRAPHIC EFFECTS

Florals are everywhere, but bold, abstract designs are equally strong. Most were prints, but some were ikat and batik-inspired prints that mimic wovens. Graphic effects were delineated in two strong ways, sometimes overlapping depending upon what fabrics or how designers layered the pieces. The first was bold, abstract designs often influenced by important Abstract painters and interior designers. The other trend relied upon tribal inspired designs, many of them blown up in size to emphasize the shape and symmetry. These tribal looks fell into two directions, too. One was an African inspired look. Many runway shows combined tribal beads and other jewelry in layers. Another look was more natural Earthy Mother looks reminiscent of 1970.

ELEMENTS OF THE STYLE

• Tribal, usually African inspired prints, stripes, and ikats in feminine fabrics, sometimes embellished with beads on the clothes.
• Wrist emphasis pairs best with bold looks, such as stacks of tribal bangles, multicolored Bakelite-like cuffs, and links wore singly or stacked with bangles.
• Bold swirls and twirls of color, very Op Art and Abstract but on sheer, feminine fabrics.
• Pattern on pattern mixing, sometimes incorporating florals, in a patchwork look that when pieced together took on a larger, graphic design.
• Minimalism remains a factor, often feminized with pale colors, and sometime sari-like wraps such as at Hermes and Costume Nationale.
• Seventies inspiration: earth-toned naturals embellished with elements such as woodblock prints, feathers, and shades of brown from croissant to chocolate.

Seen on the runways: Phillip Lam's stone and braided looks, Marni, Fendi, Chloe, Givenchy, Oscar de la Renta, Tory Burch, Metro and its tribal bead necklaces, Matthew Williamson, Catherine Malandrino's abstract and tribal combo jackets, Karl Lagerfeld's op art and conical necklaces.

AFFLUENT ATHLETICS

Tennis anyone? Although courtly games such as tennis and racquetball are popular with the country club set, other sports usually associated with the affluent are filtering down to a broader level. Ralph Lauren's polo is the premier example, but now sports once associated solely with the well-to-do are having an impact in the "athleisure" market. While many are mainstays (belted rompers, tennis tops and shorts, or zippered track jackets) since they are taken directly from uniforms, the difference is in the high-tech fabrications, new colors, and layering. Designers also paired athletic inspired silhouettes with ultra feminine fabrics, adding ruffles, bows, or jeweled accessories.

ELEMENTS OF THE STYLE

• Golf and polo shirts abound both for men and women.
• Tennis stripes and white-with-color combinations.
• Many of the athletic inspired clothes, especially from European designers, come from soccer team colors. Ellen Campuzano at Fashion Facts Folio predicts freesia yellow is a sleeper color. "The fashion industry has always been afraid of yellow. It may not be the best color for around the face, but it's coming in next year. Look for yellow to be especially strong in accessories."
• Medals, pins, and sport team inspired pieces worn in clusters, treated as a more sophisticated version of the "girl scout" badge sash look.
• Crests and coats of arms representing real and fantasy teams as printed emblems, embroidered patches, and engravings on jewelry, belt buckles, and leather goods.
• Up and coming team sport concepts, especially rugby where concept stores are gaining in popularity.
• Equestrian motifs from racing horse heads to links modeled after bridles and bits.
• Sailing team insignias and nautical signal flags, inspired both in color and shape.
• Footwear: The Kids look tennis shoe, sometimes in printed canvas. Metallic versions (silver tones predominate) included greens, blue, and purple. Sneaker boots started out as a fun look in the junior market but now have been translated into a more grown up style.

Seen on the runways: Chanel, Richard Chai, Stella McCartney, Michael Kors, Diane Von Furstenberg, Réyes, Carolina Herrera, Lacoste, Tommy Hilfiger.

STONE AGE

A detail that could hardly escape notice was the big stone look. In recent seasons, sparkle and glitz was achieved primarily through artificial means, such as sequins. That embellishment remains, but it's getting more raw and rough, much like the way designers are using raw or rose cut diamonds. Some designers used large sized "gemstones" with the look of real and sewed them right into collars or necklines. The look harkens back to the days of bold gemstone mixtures seen in post World War II into the 1960s, a concept popularized by many American jewelry masters.

ELEMENTS OF THE STYLE

• Bold bibs of large gemstones combining various sizes and cuts.
• Long necklaces of single colored stones, pearls, or gemstones that are the same hue as a spring/summer color.
• Irregularly shapes or "slabs" of stone.
• Wide cuffs comprised of various sized gemstones, usually one color or tonal.
• Rough or rose cut raw diamonds are developing a niche all their own.
• "Genuine" stones, such as agates and other mottled materials, used in chunky jewelry, mosaics on belts, and affixed to cuffs.
• Large millimeter and baroque pearls, sometimes worn as a collar and a longer necklace combined.
• Metal manipulations: large gemstones combined with large links in necklaces and bracelets.
• Torsades of colored gemstones.
• Big single stone cocktail rings either faceted or cabochon.
• Inspiration: Tony Duquette, the artist who created extravagant gemstone jewelry that appealed to the Duchess of Windsor and Elizabeth Arden. Abrams is releasing Tony Duquette this season. Henry Dunay continues to be an icon of American design, and Abrams also recently published Henry Dunay: A Precious Life.

Seen on the runways: John Galliano's chunky necklaces, Fendi's stone/gem belt buckles, Chloe, Tory Burch, Giambattista Valli's bright rough cut stones embellishing citrus gowns, Ferragamo, DSquared's large doubled colored bead necklaces, Versace, Vera Wang.