provided by: Hotels With the rise of the small plates food trend and the continued interest in tasting portions, china manufacturers have had ample opportunity to explore size and shape to offer consumers mix-and-match table settings with a whimsical vibe. Now it's the glass manufacturers' chance to shine thanks to consumers' growing interest in wine. Today we're seeing more manufacturers playing with the shape of wine glasses to offer greater depth of flavor and an overall improved drinking experience. Also, as learning about wine has become trendier, we're seeing more and more hotel restaurants and bars offering tasting portions or "flights." In fact, the popularity of sampling in both food and wine has led creative beverage directors to take the flight concept to a whole new level-be it mini-cocktail tastings or tequila flights, complete with tequila sommelier. Of course, these mixologists need an attractive and enticing way to serve these novel spirits, and the glass manufacturers are helping them make a lasting impression with a new range of barware that adds a special flair to the tabletop.
"Flights or samplers and tastings are back in vogue [as is] the re-emergence of mixology," says Daniel Hoffman, director, equipment and beverage for Marriott International. And as a result, Hoffman says, the challenge for hotel bars is finding the right size of glassware to use. "You need to look at things like value perception in pour size. In flights, if you are pouring 3 oz. into a 14-oz. wine glass, and you're charging US$28 for a flight of Cabernets, guests perceive they are not getting a great value."
So just as the proportion of food needs to be appropriate to the size of the plate, so, too, does the size of the glass. Hotels interested in offering such beverage programs, he suggests, should be prepared to add to their arsenal of glassware as well as take into consideration the extra storage and warewashing issues that will no doubt arise. However, the ability to wow guests with fun and inventive new cocktails or wine programs can be well worth the challenges, and more and more manufacturers are offering new glassware lines that are not only festive but durable.
Fortessa, for example, offers smaller capacity barware in more interesting shapes with its Temptationz collection of glasses. The pieces are as used as tasters and for flights from mini-martinis to single malts and cognacs. Libbey Foodservice also has introduced mini-martini glasses for flights as well as smaller capacity wine glasses. And while in the U.S. market the standard 7-, 9- and 12-oz. rocks glasses remain Libbey's biggest sellers in the category, that's not the case outside the United States. So for its international markets, the company is introducing smaller-capacity sizes to play up the small plates and bar food trends.
In addition to varying the barware for tasting selections, the latest trend in wine glasses is technical: New shapes and/or processing methods allow the wine to oxygenate more effectively, thus accentuating the flavor profile. While not necessarily a new concept-Riedel being perhaps the best known manufacturer addressing this -today more manufacturers are offering their own interpretations and alternatives, and in the process helping to educate consumers about all wine's subtle nuances.
New lines include those by Mikasa, Eisch and Zwiesel Crystal-which created its new line in partnership with a master sommelier who added his signature touch. For a high-tech tabletop, select Germany's Eisch, which spent five years developing its Breathable Glass line, which is just being introduced into the North American market. While not offering too many details on the "special raw material" from which the crystal-quality goblets are made, the result is wine that shortly after poured tastes as if it had been decanted hours ago-fuller aroma and flavor, the way the wine is meant to taste. Such new lines also tout greater durability-an important feature in "flight" service.
Direct comments to: kstrauss@reedbusiness.com
Designer Dishes
Designer Todd Oldham is taking the idea of customization to the next level by creating signature china for the new Enoteca Spiaggia restaurant, set to open later this year at renovated The Fairfax hotel in Miami's South Beach. Oldham, who is heading up the hotel's entire renovation, has been working closely with acclaimed Chicago Chef Tony Mantuano, of Spiaggia, to design his second outpost of the popular Italian, fine-dining establishment at The Fairfax. Oldham's participation in the project is so involved that he has gone so far as to measure the sizes of the entrees and has created special dishware for certain dishes.
"He came to Chicago and spent a few days at Spiaggia tasting the food. He whipped out a ruler and some paper and started measuring how big the portions were," Mantuano says, adding that he and Oldham immediately connected on how the food should be presented. "He had stacks of paper that he would trace over things. He was quite specific." Mantuano explains that Oldham also took pictures of some of his signature dishes to create special dishware. "He latched on to three or four items that he said needed the Hollywood star treatment," Mantuano says. For example, the restaurant will feature a mozzarella bar, similar in look to a sushi bar, but serving different types of the fresh cheese with a range of Italian accompaniments. Oldham created a special white platter for the mozzarella that sits inside a coral-colored holder. As white and coral are the dominant colors for the restaurant, the design, Mantuano says, works out perfectly.
In addition, Oldham designed a special dish for a caviar presentation that looks like Murano glass and even used wine bottles to create some distinctive bowls. Another Oldham special is a custom-made serving cart for gelato and other frozen desserts so that they can be presented tableside.
author: By Karyn Strauss, Senior Editor
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