The Basics of Compound Butters
Compound butter is nothing more than butter mixed with a flavorful ingredient: anything from an herb or spice to a bit of fruit, like lemon, or a condiment like mustard or soy sauce. It’s best used as a finishing ingredient in sauces and also on grilled or broiled meats and vegetables. To make it, you just combine butter and your chosen ingredient(s); there is no exact ratio. But use goodquality unsalted butter and certainly avoid margarine. (If you want to avoid butter, see Flavored Oil, page 26.) You can refrigerate compound butter for days or freeze it for a month or so. Roll it into a log and wrap in two or three layers of plastic before freezing. When you need some, slice a piece off and return the rest to the freezer.
Compound Butter MAKES: 4 to 8 servings TIME: 10 minutes
Herb butters are the most basic and traditional compound butters; variations follow. Bear in mind that some herbs are stronger than others—and spices are stronger still—so adjust the amount based on taste.
2 tablespoons chopped parsley, chervil, cilantro, chives, dill, or sage, or smaller amounts of tarragon, rosemary, or thyme leaves, or a combination
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter, at room temperature
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper (optional)
Juice of 1/2 lemon (optional)
Use a fork to cream the herbs with the butter; add salt as needed and pepper and lemon juice if you like. Use or wrap and refrigerate or freeze for later. These can be used in conjunction with the herb or not, as you prefer (same with the lemon juice) or combined with one another. Amounts are approximate; adjust to taste.
1. 2 tablespoons chopped scallion
2. 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
3. For a sweet butter: 1 to 2 tablespoons honey or minced crystallized ginger
4. 1 teaspoon grated lemon or lime zest, along with 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon or lime juice
5. 1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and mashed, with 1 teaspoon minced lemon zest
6. 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, with 1 tablespoon minced shallot if you like
7. 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard or horseradish or 1 teaspoon wasabi powder
8. 2 teaspoons Spanish paprika
9. 2 tablespoons minced pitted green or black olives
10. 1 teaspoon minced garlic
11. Mashed flesh of 1/2 peach, plum, or pear
12. 1 or 2 teaspoons soy sauce
13. 1 or 2 (or more if you’re a fanatic) mashed anchovies
14. 2 or 3 tablespoons finely chopped dried shrimp
15. 1 or 2 tablespoons minced fresh or dried chiles, or to taste
ROLLING COMPOUND BUTTER INTO A LOG For an elegant presentation, you can roll compound butter into a log; using wax or parchment paper is the easiest, though foil works in a pinch. A rubber spatula can help form smooth sides, though rolling with your hands is fine, too. Once the butter is firm, remove the wrapper and cut crosswise into pats as thick or thin as you like.
Cooking takes the edge off garlic, onions, and other foods, so you’ll have a milder-tasting compound butter. Let the flavoring cool before adding them.
1. 2 or more cloves Roasted Garlic (page 303).
2. 1 teaspoon minced garlic cooked in 1 tablespoon butter for 2 to 3 minutes, or until soft. Enhance it with 1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger (add for the last minute of cooking) and a little soy sauce.
3. 2 finely chopped scallions or shallots, sautéed with 1 or 2 tablespoons butter in a pan over medium-low heat.
4. About 3 tablespoons chopped cashews or other nuts, sautéed with a tablespoon or two of butter in a pan over medium-low heat until light golden.
5. About 2 tablespoons chopped carrot, cooked over medium-low heat in a tablespoon or two of butter until very soft. Nice with parsley.
6. 2 pieces crisply cooked bacon, crumbled.
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