Big Ships versus Small Ships
Hardly a week passes that some cruise line doesn’t announce plans for another ship—bigger and, of course, better than the last. But bigger isn’t necessarily better for a cruise. New words have crept into the cruise lexicon. Not everyone agrees on their definitions, but for the purpose of comparison, these are the parameters we will use:
ULTRALINER: A cruise ship over 140,000 tons and with a basic capacity (that is, 2 people per cabin) of over 2,500 passengers.
MEGALINER: A cruise ship with a basic capacity of more than 2,000 passengers.
SUPERLINER: A cruise ship with a basic capacity of about 1,000 to 2,000 passengers.
MIDSIZE: A cruise ship with a basic capacity of 400 to 900 passengers.
SMALL SHIP: A cruise ship with a basic capacity of under 400 passengers.
BOUTIQUE SHIP: A luxury cruise or expedition ship with a basic capacity of under 300 passengers.
OCEAN LINER: Generally, any oceangoing passenger vessel, but tends to be used for ships that provided transatlantic and worldwide service and have since been converted into cruise ships. Although the new QM2 could be called an ocean liner, she’s also an ultraliner since she holds 2,800 passengers and offers transatlantic service on a regular basis. Until you sail on small ships, you may not realize their special pleasures. Small ships are fewer but more diverse in style than larger ones. They range from traditional sailing ships, such as Star Clipper’s tall ships, to computer-driven ones like Windstar Cruises’ ships, and in the degree of comfort and service from the modest vessels of
American Canadian Caribbean Lines to Silversea’s ultraluxurious fleet. Prices likewise vary from the moderate Windjammer Barefoot Cruises to très cher Seabourn Cruises. It’s difficult to generalize, but all small ships are cozy, imparting warmth never felt on a superliner. The smallest ones, such as American Safari’s 12- to 21-passenger ships, are like private yachts—yet surprisingly affordable.
The congenial atmosphere also enhances interaction between passengers and crew, who are likely to call you by name from the first day. If you covet privacy and personal space, though, this type of cruise may not be your best bet. Small ships with their shallow drafts, turnon- a-dime maneuverability, and fewer passengers can gain access and acceptability in places where large ships simply cannot go. Their size makes them welcome at private islands and exclusive resorts and allows them to nudge into shallow bays and hidden coves. Their ports tend to be offbeat and uncommercialized. Some small cruisers have bow or stern ramps, enabling them to disembark passengers directly onto beaches or into remote villages. Others carry Zodiacs and/or sea kayaks to transport passengers into wilderness. Some have retractable marinas, enabling passengers to water ski or swim from the ship.
A small ship offers exclusivity, even if it is unintended. Seating is unassigned at single seatings for meals. (On luxury ships, dining may be at the time of your choosing.) There are no crowds, no long lines, almost no regimentation. Best of all, on shore, you don’t feel like part of a herd, unless you book a bus tour.
Today’s superliners, megaliners, and ultraliners are self-contained floating resorts with facilities that operate almost around the clock. The bigger the vessel, the more the ship becomes the focus, although itineraries and ports are still important.
For small ships, destinations are key, and sightseeing is the main activity. These ships offer more varied and unusual itineraries than larger ships can, and often carry experts to discuss destinations and accompany passengers on shore excursions.
Small ships draw experienced, discriminating, and independent travelers who enjoy low-key ambience and often appreciate what is not available as much as what is. Many neither want nor need nonstop activities. Still, check with your travel agent, as some small ships, like Celebrity Expedition, are also great for active pursuits like diving, hiking, or hefty nature activities. A few small vessels have tiny casinos and small-scale entertainment, but most substitute conversation and companionship, or lectures by various experts, for chorus lines and cabarets.
Small ships are peoplesized. It’s easy to learn the layout on the first day. Life aboard is casual, even on the most luxurious ships. Informality and friendliness go hand in hand. Passengers are fewer, and making friends is easy—an advantage for singles.
The smaller size attracts all age groups. Sailing ships, particularly schooners, draw the young and adventuresome, attracted by the lower price and the opportunity to work alongside the crew. Deluxe ships and those with longer itineraries attract older travelers, many of whom are young in spirit and intellectually curious. They appreciate an island’s culture and are eager to interact with the locals. Sound appealing? Then consider one of the three basic types of small ships: Ultraluxurious liners offer privacy and pampering, exclusivity and elegance, tastefully opulent suites, gourmet dining, and often formal evenings. In sharp contrast are adventure-oriented ships, whose destinations are chosen for their natural beauty, wildlife, or cultural interest. Activities include hiking, kayaking, and birding. Cabins usually are modest, service minimal, and cooking down-home. They appeal to many people who spurn luxurious pampering but are keenly interested in participatory travel. A third type strikes a middle ground, offering comfortable (but not lavish) accommodations, good food, and attentive service. There is some adventure, some history and wildlife, and some time for sports. Evening entertainment includes games, movies, local talent, and guest speakers.
Even with these choices, small-ship cruising is not for everyone. Some would find it boring or confining. But if you abhor lines or regimentation, can operate on your own juices, yearn for a more intimate environment, or want to try trimming the sails or floating in luxury, small ships might be right for you.
Old Ships versus New Ships
Poets praise the beauty of sailing ships. But observers of classic cruise ships like the QE2 have been equally captivated by noble grace that is both massive and subtle. Unfortunately, Norway is gone—out of the U.S. fleet and possibly headed for the scrap yard. Alas, such ships will never be built again.
Are old or new vessels better? The debate rages. Classic ships still in service, as opposed to those merely old, offer ambience that no newer ship can duplicate. But the newest cruise vessels have advantages only dreamed of in 1960. Because there are well-maintained and up-to-date older ships in service, you have a choice between the old and the new afloat. Find your preference by surveying what each type of ship has to offer.
Notice first the appearance of any vessel, old or new. The newest ships are designed from the inside out to provide more and better public rooms and the most amount of usable deck space. These vessels spend most of their days in calm seas. None but Queen Mary 2 will cut through the North Atlantic at full speed to maintain a schedule, so the fine lines and razor-sharp bow of the QE2 aren’t needed. Instead, new ships have squared sterns and chunky superstructures that provide many benefits internally but none externally.
As with some prima donnas, most new ships have one or two good angles. Publicity materials show profile shots and aerials of raked stems and funnels and broad decks for recreation. Once inside your cabin, however, you may forget your ship’s outward appearance. The space available to modern designers has generally made possible standard, usually larger, cabins for everyone. Some older ships offer comfortable space in every cabin, but they can’t match the improved bathrooms and lighting of newer ships.
Luxury versus Midprice and Economy Cruises
Some of the most extraordinary spas, gyms, pools, lounges, and showrooms are found on the megaships of affordable midmarket lines such as Carnival and Princess. Likewise, dropping big bucks will not ensure that your ship is newer, nicer, or more competently and courteously staffed. (Check the ratio of passengers to crew. The lower the ratio, the more service you should get.) Booking a luxury cruise may get you a larger cabin (suites aboard Silversea or Seabourn Cruise Line) and almost certainly buys a roomier bath with tub and shower.
Regarding food, luxury lines have the edge. Usually they feed fewer passengers at a single seating spanning a couple of hours. Passengers arrive at the dining room a few at a time, like at a restaurant ashore. The staggered arrivals allow the galley the flexibility to provide more choice and cook dishes to order.
Most midmarket and economy cruises have two seatings for each meal. When their seating is called, passengers stampede into the dining room like marines hitting the beach. Surprisingly, however, the quality of meals on some luxury ships is only marginally better than that of better midmarket lines. A number of midmarket cruise lines such as Princess, Norwegian, and Disney offer exclusive, stand-alone specialty restaurants in addition to their main dining rooms. These restaurants require reservations and passengers must pay a surcharge (usually between $10 and $30), but some serve fare that rivals the cuisine served in dining rooms aboard luxury vessels.
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