provided by: 
Decks are simple frame construction that most any DIY'er will find easy and fun to build. Design and planning are the most important step to an enjoyable and successful project. Make sure that you spend an appropriate amount of time designing your deck for its intended purpose, area and environment. Proper planning will help the project go smoothly and you will have a well-built deck that will last for many years.
The first step in construction is to install the ledger board,
which anchors the deck to the house.
Step One—Installing the ledger board
(Note before installing ledger board, be sure and install flashing in accordance with your building code, to prevent water penetration into the house.) The ledger board is the board that is attached directly to the side of your house. This will also establish the height of your deck (don't forget to take in to consideration the decking material). Your ledger board and the deck's joist will support the weight of the deck, so use 2-by-8's or 2-by-10's depending on the size of the deck you plan to build. Ensure that the ledger is level and attach it by using lag bolts that attach to your home's rim joist (some siding may need to be removed). Or, use expansion bolts if you are attaching it to a poured concrete foundation.
Lay out the deck with string and stakes, and measure
the diagonals to check for square.
Step Two—Laying out the deck
Establishing the layout of the deck is nothing more than outlining the size and shape of the deck using string and wood stakes. This step will determine where you will locate the supporting concrete piers and support posts. Drive the stakes at each corner about two feet longer than the deck will be away from the house. Attach the string to this stake and to each end of the ledger board. Drive another stake, on both corners, two feet outside the first string at the desired width of the proposed deck. Where the strings intersect, check for square by measuring diagonally from the intersection of the strings to the opposite corner of the ledger board, then check the other measurement; they should be the same. Move the stakes until the outline is completely square.
Rent a power auger to save lots of time when digging post footings.
Step Three—Supporting the deck
Your footing hole depth is determined by your location and frost line. Check with local building codes to find out how deep you will need to dig to get below the frost line in your area and prevent frost heave. Dig a hole to that depth 12 to 16 inches wide. Mix concrete and fill the footing hole. Insert a 6-inch bolt into the wet cement, leaving about 2 inches of the threads above the top of the cement. Once the cement has dried, attach the pier bracket to this bolt with a washer and nut, then place your 4-by-4 into the bracket, plumb and level it, then secure it in place using galvanized screws.
Left: Joist hangers help to fasten the framing.
Right: Attach the joists to the support posts with lag bolts.
Left: Doubling the rim joists adds strength and stability.
Right: Staggered support blocking adds to the deck's sturdiness.
Step Four—Framing
Start by running a joist from your ledger board to your support post (perpendicular to the ledger board). Make sure it is level and attach the joist to the post using lag bolts. Finish the outline of the deck frame by attaching the rim joist, which runs parallel to the ledger board. Mark your joist locations on the ledger board and rim joist 16 inches apart and attach joist hangers at these locations. Install the joists into the hangers and attach with screws. Finally, install support blocking between the joists for structural sturdiness.
Step Five—Decking
Start your decking at the house edge, leaving a half inch gap. Make certain that this board is perfectly straight because all of the decking will run off of this board. Attach the decking with screws recommended by the decking manufacturer. Center any joints over a joist so that you can attach both ends securely. Separate the deck boards approximately 1/16 to 1/8 inch to allow for expansion and contraction. As you install the deck boards, allow them to run long over the joists. When all of the deck boards are installed, snap a chalk line about an inch from the last joist and trim all of the deck boards at once using a circular saw.
Left: Keep the rail posts plumb and square.
Right: You'll probably have to notch the deck boards to fit around the posts.
Step Six—Railing
Install the railing posts plumb and square. The posts should be anchored in footings 24 inches deep with 80 pounds of concrete per post. Fasten the posts to the joist faces with lag bolts. Note: Deck railing must be able to withstand 500 pounds of force to the top of the railing. If you're posts are not anchored in footings, you should not rely on lag bolts alone. Instead, use the metal brackets available from Simpson Strong Ties or Deck-lok (www.deck-lok.com).
Left: Rail height is usually 36 inches off the deck surface.
Right: When installing the balusters, use a spacer block to keep the spacing consistent.
On top of the posts install a 2-by-6 establishing the top of your railing and providing additional support to the posts. Lastly, measure between the posts and cut two 2-by-4's or 2-by-6's to length. Attach the balusters to these boards, spacing them no more than 4 inches apart. Attach the completed balustrade to the posts and to the top rail.
Step Seven—Finishing
If your decking is pressure-treated lumber or composite, it must be treated to maximize it's life and to protect your investment. Treating the deck will protect it from both water and UV damage. Apply the protectant evenly at the intervals recommended by the manufacturer. Allow it to dry and enjoy your new deck.
Be sure to search our site for tons more articles on building and remodeling decks!
For more information, go to www.extremehowto.com