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The swirling teardrop shape first associated with intricate shawls, quilts, and rugs has found its way into the imaginations and collections of leading luxury jewelers. The paisley motif, which first originated in Persia in the 1500's, was used in textile design to decorate royal interiors and court garments. The pattern was soon adopted in India with delicate and intricate floral and foliage motifs. By the mid-1800's, its western name was derived from the town of Paisley, Scotland, which began producing shawls that emulated designs that were being crafted in Kashmir. The look spread throughout Europe, particularly England and France.
For the new season, jewelry designers are reinterpreting paisleys found in embroidery fabrics and lace motifs of this time period. They are spinning these looks, which range from richly ornate and colorful to embellished yet subtle, into gold with diamond and gemstone accents.
Designers including Megan Thorne, Kamofie, and Leslie Greene have created dainty and feminine versions that recall paisleys from European lace and frescos. H. Stern, Manak Couture, and Shaill borrow their influences from the ornamental saris and silks of India and the cashmere shawls first seen in Kashmir. Dana & David keep it simple focusing on the original teardrop silhouette. Coomi, who has been showing different variations since she launched her collection five years ago, explains, "I not only love the enduring quality of this motif which has lived on throughout centuries but also its meaning. One symbolizes the life force, growth, and renewal while two connecting paisleys conjure up the flow and interaction of two polar energies (yin-yang), the totality of which encompasses creation."
author: EDITOR: BETH BERNSTEIN - Lustre